12 weeks to last frost
I hesitate to start a post with a title like this--it suggests I'll have a series. It could happen!? In fact, I've already split this into two posts, so I could start with a general overview of seed starting.In Madison, our average last spring frost occurs right around mid-May. Frost dates are funny little statistics. I found a good map of Wisconsin climate data here, at our extension office. If you want to get all weather-nerdy (as I do) you can find charts with the percentage chances by date. For instance, after May 10th, there is a 50% chance of frost, and after the 27th, there is a 97% chance we will not have below freezing weather. Cool, right?
If you're not in Wisconsin, you can do a quick google search for your frost dates by zip code, but check a few sources, I found a lots of variations between commercial sites. Look for USDA data, and compare it to your own observations about your local micro-climate. My little protected south-facing yard warms up pretty fast, so I tend to trust the slightly earlier dates. If you've gardened for a while, look back at your notes from previous years. Last year? We had frost right up to May 12th, and the way things are going I think this spring will be a slow start too.
At the beginning of the year I create a basic planting schedule every two weeks from now until May 15th, with notes on the types of plants that are ready to start. First up: alliums and slow-growing herbs like parsley and cutting celery. Next come the brassicas, who can go outside bit earlier, along with the eggplants and peppers that need a long running start. Finally, in mid- to late-March, I start tomatoes. These schedules don't have to be perfectly followed to the letter, and don't worry if you run a little later than your plans, I find it's much better to have young plants in fine weather, than unhappy overgrown plants waiting out the last cold spell. Most seed starting recommendations have a range, and there is plenty of flexibility.
So, a few very basic overview details on starting your own seeds--I'll be more specific in later posts. I use a very basic setup: traditional flats and cell inserts (plastic), and a purchased seed starting media. If your preference is homemade mix and soil blocks, even better. Use what you like!
I also wash, reuse and re-purpose miscellaneous pots for many years. There is some concern regarding transmitting disease but I have not yet had a problem.
My light setup is a utility shelf with regular shop lights stolen from the basement where they are used the rest of the year. I try to have one warm and one cool bulb in each fixture, and am slowly investing in gro-lux bulbs (one for each). Once sprouted, I have flats as close to the light as possible, and I rotate around as needed to keep similar sized seedlings together. With a simple 2-bulb fixture, I do end up rotating things a bit for even growth. Some might find this tedious but for me, spring sets are all about puttering.
Now that I have the hoop house, I use it as a giant cold frame too, but it's a lot farther from the house, which means many trips (including a flight of stairs). It's better for hardier sets like alliums, and later in the season for hardening things off.
Just a last note: this is my setup which has evolved over 10-15 years--it started out WAY smaller--one or two lights, a few flats, and lots of practice. I find it fun, I know not everybody has the time or space (or inclination), and buying sets is a perfectly fine option. But if you are yearning to have something green indoors to remind you that spring is indeed coming: don't worry about having the perfect equipment to start with, and go for it!
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